It flaked off easy, so not sure why when I had run a long stainless grill brush along the inside top that hadn't freed it. I pried the plastic tank off the old radiator and found a thin slime of goldish perhaps metallic "mud" covering many channels. I finally put in a new radiator (had tried another used one and flushing both) and no more problems (runs 82 C all the time now). The temp would creep up toward the 120 C red line at very long stoplights, then drop once driving. At one point, I drained the Evans (didn't throw away since $45/gal) and filled w/ pure water, bypassing the heater core since that is the hardest part to rid of water, plus it was summer. I was having an overheating issue in my 1985 M-B 300D which frustrated me for years, trying many things. I haven't noticed the engines running hotter. I'm too cheap to put it in my 1996 minivan, plus use up the regular coolant in it. I have used Evans in 6 of my 7 vehicles, some for over a decade. It's nice stuff, but if you find yourself HAVING to use it to get it to run cool, something's wrong. You shouldn't be having to use things like Evans. You've got "something" not right somewhere. But with a very efficient cooling system I'm shedding it like nobody's business. My engine has 175 PSI cranking pressure, so it's generating some heat. It never gets above 1/4 on the gauge and stays on 1/8 except in stop and go in the hottest part of the day and once back on the road cools back off to the 1/4 mark. When I put the 160 high flow in it, that was the game changer. I put a 180 in it and it dropped it to just under half. The only circulation it had was the tiny bleed hole in the thermostat and it STILL didn't get over half way on the gauge. This radiator is so danged efficient that the engine never got up to a high enough temperature where the 195 thermostat ever opened. I HAD a high flow 195 thermostat in a while back. What radiator do you have? Normally, almost all over heating problems can be traced to a radiator that's just not efficient enough. I have a stock four blade fan, but I'm probably going to swap it out soon for a solid five blade staggered blade fan "just because" I have one. Reading it with the infra red gun at operating temperature going into the radiator it's 179 degrees and 87 coming out. Once out on the road it drops back down to the 1/8 mark. Now, even on the hottest days it only gets 1/4 way up after stop and go heat soak. I don't have an aftermarket temperature gauge. So I filled it up with 93, bumped the timing to 20 initial and now it runs very well. I had it at 15 initial and 30 total and it ran well on 87, but just was not "quite right". Colder plugs, blocking the heat to the intake manifold, a 160 high flow thermostat, and limiting total timing. I had a small spark knock issue early on with hard acceleration, but managed to tune it out through several progressive steps. Static compression is 10.1 and dynamic is 7.99. You may have read I've just recently installed a hot slant 6 in my 64 Valiant. I've never run anything but straight water or a mix of water and coolant, like I am now. Nothing personal, that's just how I see it. I consider things like that a gimmick to get your money and a crutch for an otherwise poorly set up cooling system. You'll get no support from me for Evans coolant. I am almost ready to dump $200 worth of coolant and go back to 50/50, but I wanted to see if anyone else has a similar experience. (I also had ping before rebuilding.)Ģ) Higher under-hood temperature causes more fuel to boil off after parking. Retarding timing didn't solve that problem. The water pump is a stock replacement pump.ġ) Compression is about 8.9:1 static, 7.7:1 dynamic, and it pings under load even with 93 octane. The radiator was overhauled by a good shop while the engine was out, but it is the smaller (non-AC) stock slant radiator. I tried replacing the thermostat and it didn't make a difference. Once the engine warms up, the needle is quite steady in that spot regardless of driving conditions. Before the rebuild the needle would be consistently below the midpoint of the gauge, and now it's consistently near the high end. 210 is consistent with what I see on the temp gauge while driving. ![]() The radiator reads 200-210 at the top and 160-170 at the bottom. Pointing an infrared thermometer at the thermostat housing, where it used to read 190 it now reads 210. ![]() ![]() Ever since then it's been running hotter than before. I rebuilt my slant last year and decided to splurge on this non-water coolant while the water was all out of the block. Could Evans waterless coolant cause my engine to run consistently too hot? Has anyone gone back from Evans to 50/50 and found lower running temperature?
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